Saturday, January 17, 2009

Catwoman - in 9 easy lives, uh, I mean steps!!!
Well, it's been a few years now since I've built a vinyl kit. Whew, how time does fly. This particular kit is a gem, the Horizon Catwoman, which of course is the Michelle Pfieffer version from the 2nd Tim Burton Batman film, Batman Returns. Opinions are mixed on this film, but not on this kit, it's a stunning likeness of Michelle and it is sculpted into a pose that is just spot on from the film. I built this kit for myself several years ago and frankly, I'm dyin' to have another crack at it so let's get goin'!

1.) Washin', Blowin', Cuttin', Trimin', and Fittin'.......
One key difference in vinyl kits is that you have to do some initial prep work even before you prime and putty. The first step is to take all the parts and wash them with warm water and a mild detergent, this makes sure that all the mold release compound is cleaned off the kit prior to painting. If you don't do this you run the risk of your primer and paint not adhering to the kit. And that would suck, now wouldn't it? Once these parts dry of then you have to heat up and cut way the flashing from the kit components. "How the heck do I do that, Cal?" you may rightfully ask, and doggonit, I'm gonna' tell you. First, I carefully inspect all the parts to make sure I've got everything together, then one by one, I zap 'em with my trusty Vidal Sassoon 1500 Watt blow dryer. Once the part is soft and pliable, I quickly cut away the excess flashing with an X-Acto knife. Be careful with this part, kids. More than once I've cut into a good portion of my own flesh! As trim each part, I do a quick initial fitting to make sure that the parts are all going to seat well when I'm ready to assemble and glue. Just keep doin' this until all the parts are ready for pre-assembly and priming. Another neat lil' trick I use just prior to committing to the unforgiving adhesion of the ol' superglue is scoring, or marking the aligning parts. Basically it's like this: I lightly heat up the parts to be glued, before using any glue, I fit the pieces together and work them into the proper alignment. Once satisfied that everything lines up just right, I mark a line with a black marker across the seam of both parts. This way, when I get to gluin', I know that my pieces will be where I want them. 'Cause believe me, with vinyl, as opposed to styrene, superglue sticks FAST!! It's amazing how fast the glue takes hold. I had forgotten about that with vinyl kits, and had to do a couple of do-overs on my first few tries. Thankfully nail polish remover, if used soon enough, does remove the glue. So, keep this in mind, kids. Once I've gone through all the major parts, pre-fit them and marked them for alignment, it's time to glue. Once again, a light bead of superglue will suffice, and I always follow up with Insta-Set, just to really get a good solid bond. Now that the major portions are in place, I look over the whole kit and make note of the not so good seams. This kit is obviously a recast, and not a particularly good one, so there are alot of imperfections in the joint alignment. Not the end of the world, but it will take me a bit of extra work with the X-Acto knife to clean up some of the mess. But, perfection is what we're after here, so no use gripin' about the work.

2.) Primin', Puttying, Scrapin' and Sandin'.........
First, let me apologize for my unexplained absence. Shoot, it's been nearly a month since I did step one and this is the first chance I've really had to get back at this kit. So, sorry 'bout that kids, now let's get back to work. I noticed right away in the earlier step that this particular mold was not totally aligned, often the case with recast kits, so I knew there'd be a fair amount of seam repair, especially where the leftleg piece joins the body. But first I prime the whole kit with Plasti-Cote Sandable Primer, I'm using a white primer this time instead of my usual gray. Priming a kit will bring out details, flaws, misaligned parts, and all manner of other details that we'll need to address later during the process. At this point, I'm mainly concentrating on what seams will require the most putty and sanding. Well, since I'm not going to be attaching the arms until later (if I put 'em on now, it'll be real difficult to paint her face) that leaves the just the boots attached to the legs, and the left leg attached to the body That leg seam is gonna' need some work. This time around I'm using MMD Fast Drying Green Putty, by Squadron. It's far superior to the Testor's Contour Putty that I've used on lots of other kits mostly because it drys fast, sands smooth as glass, and is relatively easy to apply to the kit. I hit up the area around the leg with a liberal amount of the putty, not just to hide the seam, but to level the area between the butt and the thigh. Can't have those unsightly pantie lines now, can we? After it sets for a day (or in this case, a couple of weeks!), it's time to break out the scrapin' and sandin' tools. I use a
combination of Loew-Cornell Sculpting Tools, 3M Sanding Sponges, Squadron Finishing Sticks, and good ol' fashioned sandpaper. I start by scraping the excess putty off with one of the sculpting tools, and finish by using increasingly fine grades of sanding sponges, sticks, and sandpaper. Before you know it, that seam, or seams, is lookin' pretty darn good. Once satisfied that I've smoothed 'er over, I hit the whole kit with another layer of primer and prepare to dive into the actual painting of the kit!! Oh, joy!!

Flash forward, oh, let's see, about...........................................6 YEARS!!!! That's right seekers, that's how friggin' long it's been since I sat down at this darn bench and worked on a kit! This poor fella who hired me to build his Catwoman kit had no idea what a journey it would be! Life, health, family, job, you name it, it all jumped on me in a big way and put me totally off my game with regard to my hobbies. But to hell with that now, it's all behind me, and we're forging ahead into the past on our way to the future!! Hold on kids, it's gonna be a heck of a ride.

3.) Maskin', Base Coatin', and Preppin'.............................
Because it's been so long I needed to go back and check my own blog about the first time I built this kit. Sure glad I documented all my doins, or else I'd be in a heck of a mess. So, in order to get started on the base coat I need to mask off the face and eye areas. This way I'll be painting the flesh tones over the easier to cover white primer instead of the gloss black that I'm using to base coat the kit.This time around I'm using Winsor & Newton Art Masking Fluid to do the deed. You can pick this stuff up at Michael's, or Hobby Lobby (my new favorite hobby shop) or most art supply stores. Best to apply this stuff with a damp brush, to keep the latex from sticking to the bristles. At least that seems to work for me. Next we'll break out the Krylon High Gloss Black and give a nice even base coat to our beauty. I usually do these base coats in layers for an even application. Changing direction in the spray pattern makes for even coverage, and doing multiple coats gives a deep, smooth, look. DON'T GET TOO CLOSE to your kit when spray painting for obvious reasons: DRIPPAGE! Duh, nothing says rookie like big ol' drips of spray paint running down your model. So be patient, steady hand, and be about 6 to 8 inches away from your kit when spraying!

4.) Fleshing out the Face
I've got 2 or 3 dusting's of Krylon Gloss Black on the ol' girl and now I have to carefully peel away the latex that was protecting the eye and face holes in the mask. Gotta be careful so that the latex doesn't peel away some of the black mask area that I want to leave in place. You know, think of it like when you've taped off the baseboards when you're painting a room and when you go to remove the tape, some of the wall color that you DON'T want to come off, peels off with the tape. So, this is a smaller version of the same possible problem. To help avoid that I use one of my Loel Cornell sculpting points to trace around the outside perimeter of the latex covering, carefully peeling back the latex in small areas as I go. And, after many a "oops" moment, I'm done! Now, latex isn't perfect and as carefully as I applied it there are still some touch ups that need to be done, so I get my finest point brush and some Testor's Acryl Gloss Black and clean up some of the rough lines that the latex peel left behind. If I'm not that confident in my steady hand work on some parts, I use a Staples Opti Flo Black Gel Pen to finish up the details! Then we get to mixin' up the ol' Caucasian skin color formula that I've used for many a kit. Various amounts of Liquitex Burnt Sienna, Liquitex Raw Sienna and Delta Ceramcoat White. Now, it's like chemistry, you gotta' play with the blend to find the right tone depending on what your kit calls for.
This one, Catwoman, calls for a pale, Caucasian skin tone, so more white is needed in the blend. I use a fairly narrow, flat edge detail brush to apply the flesh color to the spaces, and believe me, it ain't easy. I remember this from the first time I did a build up on this Horizon Catwoman kit, her damn right shoulder is right in the way of here face, so you really have to adopt some weird angle approaches with your paint brush! Man, I turned this kit every way but loose to get 'er done! But, as with much of my work, I seriously see the need to go back and do a clean up of the lines. So, back to the Testor's Acryl Gloss Black for a few passes at cleaning up the lines, edges, fills, and gaps in the job. Final result, pretty good for the base work on the face and now on to the other details!

5.) Stitches, Laces, Straps, and Ties! Oh, my!
Nightmarish memories of the incredible amount of stitches there are on this ladies leather wear. Sheesh, it nearly blinded me the last time I did it. Not only are the stitch details very faint (due to the less than stellar molding of the particular kit) but the high gloss black base coat reflects the damn light right back into your eyes and makes it nearly impossible to find the damn things! No matter, that's why I'm a pro, challenges excite me. Plus, I've learned a few tricks over the years that will make this job, well, still tedious as hell, but doable in short order. I have chosen to use Painters Ultra Fine Paint Pens to do my dirty work here. They make doing the detail at least a little steadier since it's much easier to control a pen tip then a brush tip. And, these are paint filled, not just ink, or marker. I also got a Sharpie brand Oil Based Paint Pen just to compare the two types. The Sharpie is not an Ultra Fine tip, so it may come in handy for other assignments, just not the darn lil' stitches. To build up my nerve, I start by doing the limited stitching on the arm pieces. That way I can test my mad skills, practice my technique, and not botch up the main body of the kit. If I totally pooch the arms, I can always paint 'em over with start again. But, although it's a little hard to see in these pic's, I think I've got my groove on here and I'm movin' on to the main event!

Okay, a brief but necessary pause in the bench work due to my other life as a rock and roll star! Three shows in three weeks had me totally diggin' in to study a bunch of songs, figure out vocal parts, show up for multiple rehearsals, and blah, blah, blah! But I actually did manage to get a few things accomplished here on the bench, including an unanticipated repair of a BROKEN Batman ear. Follow along in your hymnals, Seekers, 'cause here we go!

I'm tellin' ya, this Gal's got a butt load of stitching on her Cat suit, and it's damn hard to see when here shiny, black costume keeps reflecting the light right back in my aging orbs! But no matter, I trek on and use my handy, dandy, White Painters Ultra Fine Paint Pen do the laces on the back of her bodice, and some more stitches on the legs of the costume. Any, shall we say, outside the line work will be touched up with either my Black Painters Ultra Fine Paint Pen or with some detailed an careful brush work and my Testors Gloss Black. Also at this point I realize I never went back and used the Testors Dullcote on the facial features of the kit, a really important first step prior to doing the finish work!! Now, I didn't really want to take the time to mask off the the mask area with the Winsor & Newton Art Masing Fluid than use the spray dullcote, so I decide to gamble. Yep, me and Kenny Rogers, baby. I've had this bottle of Testor's Dullcote Lacquer settin' on my bench for God knows how long and I've never used it 'cause I was afraid that brushing it on would remove the paint, or mess up the work I'd already done. Don't know why I thought this, but I did, but I man up and decide to do it and much to my works flawless!! So there's a new learning moment for me, and by extension, YOU! Right about now an accident occurs while I'm doing some routine house cleaning in my man cave: I KNOCK OVER MY GEORGE CLOONEY BATMAN KIT AND BUST OFF ONE OF HIS EARS AND BREAK OFF HIS CAPE!!!!! SHITE!! Now I have to detour into the world of repair, and this of course in some sick way is a good thing because I can share the process with you, dear builder. Now, in the world of kit repair having a good modeling putty is a must. I have two or three types on my bench at all times, each has a specific purpose. Some are good for filling in thin seams in kits, like where body parts join together, or arms, or legs, and that sort of thing. But, when you need to completely rebuild a missing part, or build up from a part that's been broken off, you need a heavier duty putty that will be moldable and sandable. So I break out the MMD Fast Drying Green Putty, by Squadron. I take out a fairly small amount and apply it to the broken off ear of my Batman kit, form it as best I can with my fingers into a point, than wait 24 hours for it to dry and become solid. Than begins the careful sanding of the new build up. Once or twice while doing this I get a tad too aggressive and  bust the damn thing off again! So, back to the first phase once more. Now that I've got it built up and sanding, using Sanding and Finishing Sticks By Falcon, I apply the lightest cote of Testor's Contour Putty to fill in the small divots, and finish the point on the broken ear. Than wait, than sand, and then there you have it, a ready to paint replacement for the broken part. This is also the same technique I used to reapply the cape that broke off, putty the seems and sand using 3M Sanding Sponges in varying grades, starting with course and working my way down to fine to get a real smooth finish. Hopefully, when I get this thing painted back up, no

And as you can see, the tedious, yet strangely rewarding, chore of detailing the stitchwork in this kit continues. Slow and steady wins the day here, alot of back and forth touch up between the the white paint pen and the black gel pen. But the final work is well worth the effort!! You know, as much as I keep trying to get out of the damn section of the build up, the more I forget about how many other little details there are in the kit! The boots, for cryin' out loud, they have laces, and buttons, and ties, and there are about 100 on each leg! Great googly, moogly. You cannot imagine the ponderous amount of back and forth, and paint and touch up, and brush and pen work that is involved in doing these seemingly invisible, yet strangely important, details of the costume. Just for some contrast, I've decided to paint the shoe laces brown. Now, it's hardly detectable on a gloss black background, but leaving the laces black is just plain lazy! So, I mix up a subtle brown tone with a dab of Liquitex Hooker's Green and Liquitex Burgandy. Then with the thinnest brush I can find, I painstakingly accentuate the lacing on the boots. Of course, I mess up a bunch because the mold details are not as pronounced as they should be (recast hell!) but I forge on knowing that I can clean up any splotches or mistakes with my handy dandy Opti Flo Gel pen. Next, it's the dotting of the boot buttons. For this I use Tamiya Color X-12 Gold Leaf paint and a Micro Brush, perfect for doing dots. Again, there are lots of buttons on the boots and they are hard to paint, so I do my best dotting knowing that I will have to go back and clean things up with the ol' gel pen. 6o minutes later or so, I'm pretty satisfied with what I've accomplished and more than ready to put this phase of the detail work to bed.

6.) Eyes, Eyeliner, Eye Shadow and Make Up

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Surf Fink, possibly one of the whackiest of the Ed Roth Fink series, is my task this month. Admittedly, I am hesitant about even starting the kit since it has been nearly a YEAR since my last build up. Wassup widdat????? Somehow, I fell outta' the saddle and just haven't been able to get my skinny behind back to the bench. Here's the view down the desk to my modeling area, see how it haunts me! Constantly reminding me that I'm not havin' that kind of crazy fun that only comes with lots of glue fumes and putty dust in the air! I think my "continuing to deteriorate" eyesite might be driving some of my reluctance to approach the act of kit building, or maybe I'm just plain busy. Who knows? Who cares? Let's build a kit and see just how happy it makes us!!

1. Boring, Repetitive, but COMPLETELY Necessary Initial Steps
You been readin' the ol' Cal Logs, so at this point you know where we begin this trip to Styrene Heaven. The basics, the fundamentals, the blocking and tackling of the modeling practice. Prime, putty, sand. At this stage we are basically laying out the job ahead. This stage allows me to assess the imperfections of the kit, like if the mold is out of line and the parts don't fit perfectly, that sort of thing. This is where I take care of those matters to make the remainder of the job easier. So I take all the darn lil' parts, shave 'em with my X-Acto straight blade, lay 'em out nice and pretty like on my used, and reused, priming board, and give those lil' guys a liberal coat of Krylon Grey Primer. Let 'em set for an hour or ten, then bring back down into my lair for preassembly. That's the part where I take the individual parts that make up arms, legs, bodies, etc., and match them WITHOUT glue, to see how there going to fit. Believe me, Super Glue is unforgiving as hell, so ya' better be sure how things are gonna' fit before ya' go slathering the glue all over it. Once satisfied that I know what I'm up against, I go ahead and commence to gluin' the sections together. And as I've said before, size up twice, glue once. These Ed Roth Kits have a nasty habit of havin' "hidden" parts that have to be glued into place BEFORE you glue other parts together. Case in point, this kit has an interior mouth section that I need to paint red and glue inside the front body half BEFORE I glue the two halves together. Likewise, the right arm has to be placed between the body halves BEFORE gluin' or we're never gonna' get that rascal in there. Now that we've blown through the matchin' up and gluin' together phase, we start sealing up unwanted seems, cracks, and other less than satisfactory features of the kit. Like with this one, the parts didn't match up to clean, the molding was not real tight, so I had to build up alot of seam areas with my ol' Testor's Contour Putty, to make for that Pro Look the the Cal-Meister lives for. So, I check out all over and putty up the seams around the body, head, legs and arms BUT I leave the right arm seam free, so the figure can be posed somewhat. Ya'know, you may have an "up" arm day, or you may be in more of a "down" arm mood. So, bein' the sensitive, forward thinking builder that I am, Iconsider that my client on this kit may want the option to move the arm. Ditto all of this action on the Wave Base of the kit, prime, putty, and fit. Now, we're gonna' spend some hours sanding, and finishing, all the putty work so that ya' can't even tell it was there! Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooh, Magic!

2. Foundations of Greatness - Warmin' Up!
Alright, if you follow my work (and ya' better if ya' know what's good for ya'!), than you know the Calster likes to slide on into his kit building by working out the bugs on the lesser parts of each kit. In this case, the base elements: the Wave, the Surfboard, and the Hair piece. Startin' out on these simple and basic items helps me to get my "kit paintin'" groove back, so that by the time I get to the main attraction, I'm ready and rarin' to go. So, to get me goin', I start with the wave base piece. I lay down a base coat of Design Master Deep Blue acrylic spray paint. Next, I tackle the first round of paint up on the surf board. Because I need this to eventually be a two tone board, I lay down the first coat of Liquitex Cadmium Yellow (medium viscosity, them's science words fer thick but not too thick!). Now, if you've ever used yellow paint, of any kind, than you know that it is NOT a one coat proposition. Somethin' about the make up of yellow makes it damn near transparent when you apply it over grey primer. I have literally struggled with this phenomenon on many a Batman kit (chest emblems, utility belts, etc.) and as yet, have no easy answer. Ya' just gotta' apply several coats to get a nice, dense, yellow finish. We'll get back to that surfboard later, 'cause it's gonna' take some real trickery and you'll wanna' pay attention. Next up, the Ol' Finkster's hair piece. I've done alot of these Roth and Silly Surfer kits by now so I have a go to system for paintin' up beach, bleached blonde hair and it starts simply enough with a nice coat of Liquitex Burnt Sienna. As you can see by the pictures, just paintin' these simple lil' things really makes a guy feel like he's makin' some progress!! I can literally feel the ol' kit buildin' excitement startin' to build!!

3.) Body Buildin'- Gettin' to the meat of the matter!
Now that we're cookin', and since I've already got out the Liquitex Burnt Sienna, I'm gonna' march right on into paintin' up the main character section of this kit. Geez, I thought I'd wait a bit longer but doggonit, I'm gettin' into it! Takin' the aforementioned Burnt Sienna, I make up a mixture of Caucasion Skin Tone by adding Liquitex Raw Sienna and Liquitex Titanium White. This is an "artistic expression" mixture, so I don't really have measurements,

I just keep adding a bit of each until I reach the skin tone that I'm lookin' for. Somehow, miraculously, I almost always come out with the same color each time. Go figger? We mix this into a smooth, seamless blend, and with a wide flat straight edge brush (in this case a Royal Gold #12 size) and than start applying it to the kit in smooth, thin layers. What ya' don't want to do is lay on the first coat too heavy, where ya' might fill up the details that you want to bring out later. So the rule here is: a nice even coat that covers, but isn't too thick. Occasionally as I'm paintin', I'll dip my brush in a cup of water just so I can smooth out some of the rought spots, and because acrylic paints tend to start dryin' out and thickening up pretty quick. Well, now as you can see, we're startin' to look all groovy and stuff. Oh, yeah, and just to add emphasis to the earlier passage on puttying and sanding, take a look at this fella's side! "Look, Ma!! NO SEAMS!!"

4.) Early Details - Them Devils!
Never too early to begin thinkin' about those lil' things that'll separate your kit from the ranks of the average and propel it into the realm of perfection, or, uh, something like that. In my case, now that I've got my base coat on the body, I need to address all the wrinkle, hair, and dimple details that these Roth kits always have. So I grab my trusty Le Plume Dark Brown art marker and painstakingly fill in all the lil' nooks and crannies on the Fink. Now, we don't have to be too steady handed here, ya' don't want to go sloppin' it all over the place, but ya' also don't have to sweat stayin' totally inside the lines. I'll explain why a bit later. Now, as you can see, this thing is beginning to take shape, and this is where we begin really bringin' the details into pro form. It's gonna' require some drybrush work, followed by some wash action, and repeat these steps as many times as it takes to get the look we're goin' for, which of course is...........GREAT!!!

5.) Mo' Details, Mo' Details, Mo Details!!
Remember those colors I used for mixin' up my fine lookin' skin tone? Well, it's a good thing, Sparky, 'cause they also comprise much of my system for creatin' bleach, blonde hair. I've already base coated with the Liquitex Burnt Sienna, so now I follow a dry brush layering process that begins with a light brush over of Liquitex Raw Sienna, than a light brush of Delta Ceramcoat Butter Yellow, than Liquitex Cadmium Yellow, and finally Liquitex Titanium White. As I work through each of these, I don't clean the dry brush or my painting platform. That way my color transistions appear more natural, blended, and even. Dig? And check out that do!! This guy is beginin' to be stylin' beyond belief. Remember earlier I told you that we didn't have to be too careful with the gel pen work on the Finks wrinkles and hair markings? Here's why: I take my earlier left over mix of skin tone and lighten it just a tad with Liquitex Titanium White, and begin to dry brush over ALL the areas of the skin, concentrating on the portions that have the gel pen details. This action smooths out the pen work, softens the transition color between the hair, wrinkles, and skin and adds texture and depth to the skin tone itself. (Does this guy sound like he knows what he's doin', or what?!?) After a few passes at this, I grab the Le Plume Marker again, only this time I use the Fine point side. Oh, what? Didn't I mention that these Le Plume Markers come with 2 tips? Well, boy Howdy, they sure do and that makes 'em a real versatile tool for this sort of work. I take the Fine point end and just do some touch up on the hairs and wrinkles, in case some got too washed out by the drybrushing. While I'm at it, I use the Fine marker to draw in detail to the feet and hands, you know, the knuckle wrinkles, and toe creases, and all them lil' type things. Sheeeeeeeesh! Would ya' look at that! This Hodaddy is really takin' shape.

6.) Stretchin' towards the Finish.............
I just realized that in my haste to build up and paint this fine kit while documenting the momentous occassion for you, the little people, I forgot that I needed to attach the feet to the legs and address the seam issue. There's quite a sizeable gap on this kit, so I just back up a few lessons, glue on this boys dogs, using Insta-Cure Gap Filling Cyanacrylate, uh, that's super glue for most of us, and apply a thin line of Testor's Contour Putty around them there gaps, and Oila!! Gaps no more! Now it's time to start flyin' through a lot of the finish up areas on this kit. I once again get my Delta-Ceramcoat Butter Yellow and give our boy's swim trunks multiple layers (damn that yellow paint!!! It never covers in one, or two, or even THREE coats!!). Grab up the little stowaway crab and using a small mix of Butter Yellow and Bright Red, both Delta Ceramcoat colors, and get a nice, crabby orange color goin' and lay a couple of coats on. Can't forget about the toungue, that's gonna' come in handy later, so I hit it with a base coat of Liquitex Burgundy. Later I'll dry brush some lighter shades on it to bring out the texture an detail. Can you hear the dominoes startin' to fall yet?? Now, I'm not quite totally satisfied with our boys overall torso look yet, I'm thinkin' he needs some shadowing effects to bring out his might pectorals and to pro up the appearance a bit. Some guys would opt for some airbrush action here, but me? I'm takin' the road less frustrating and using chalk pastels instead. I use a set of Loew Cornell Soft Pastels, and for this instance the brown pigment is what I'm after. Using a stiff bristle small paint brush, I'm gonna' use it to brush along the chalk stick then, just like I'm painting, apply the brown pigment to the areas of the chest and stomach that I want to highlight. I also hit a line down the center of his back just to really bring out some depth. It's a simple technique that really adds the pop to kits if you use it judiciously. Next up, bringin' some life to that deep, blue wave base. Easy to fix this up with a

session of progressive dry brushing. Taking the Liquitex Basics Ultramarine Blue color, I lighten it up with Liquitex Basics Titanium White. Using a well weathered artists brush, like the one pictured here, I dab it lightly in the paint mixture, then paint off most of it on the palette, than lightly brush over the raised areas of the waves. I repeat this again with yet another lighter shade of blue, then finish it off with by drybrushing pure white over the extremities of the waves and wave caps. You can see how it goes from blah to GA-GA with this technique. Don't want to forget the least items in this build up like Surf Dude's tongue. I've got a system for these things too. Start with a base of Liquitex Burgandy and then dry brush the ridges with Liquitex Cadmium Red. Ahhhhh, beauty!! Got just a few last minute details to adhere to before we go full bore and half crazy into the last dizzying moments of this tremendous modeling session!! Let's give some life to our Surfer Boy here by dazzling up his eyeballs. No Ed Roth kit is complete without the prerequisite veining, staining, and pupilizing of the magnificent bulging orbs. Lets start simple, first move, grab my Staples Opti-Flow Black Gel Pen and carefully outline the pupils. Next, color those boys in with the Le Plume Black Marker. Staying with the pen idea, grab the Le Plume Red Marker and use the Fine side to detail in the veins of the eyes. But to really drive home that blood shot look I have to make a dab of red wash using Liquitex Cadmium Red and just plain ol' tap water. With a micro-fine brush I apply this wash solution to the wells of the eyes, and even let some come into the white part of the eyes around the sockets. Now, that's a look that even Christopher Lee would be proud of!!

7.) It's been fun, but we got to run, let's get this thing done!!
I don't know why, but everytime I do a build up it always seems like it ends too quickly. I know that alot of hours went into this thing but here at the end, when we just put in the final few touches, it seems like I just started. So let's wrap this thing up. Had to put some finishing moves on the surfboard, and this is pretty tedious work, but I start with a Le Plume Red Marker and using the fine tip I draw in the flame and stripe details on the board. Next I flip around to the brush end of the marker and carefully, I mean carefully, color in the flames and the stripes to give me a bitchin' board that Frankie Avalon would be envious of. Lastly, a soft coat of Testor's Dullcote over the entire kit to seal in all that perfection. (am I braggin'?). All that's left to do now is to assemble this wonderful Ed Roth creation and ship 'er out to my client. He's gonna' be one happy camper when he gets this one and I'm sure it'll make a fine addition to his growing collection of Finks. So there you have it, Seeker. It was a long time comin', remember I started this kit in June, got as far as the prime and putty, then nothin' til just last week, Jan. 3 when I really decided to get back to work. Not bad for a weeks work, huh? Thanks for playin' along and tune in next when we tackle the Horizon Catwoman kit. Whole different style needed for that one so it promises to be an interesting journey. See ya' next time!!